bright citrus for midwinter

It’s the time of year when folks escape to warmer climes…but for those of us staying put in the tundra-like Northeast of 2014 there are other strategies to employ. On a very very cold Sunday a few weeks ago, simmering up a big pot of Meyer lemons with plump limes and fresh fragrant rosemary provided the perfect antidote to the threat of two-minute frostbite. The vibrant yellows and greens are a splash of brilliant color in the chill blue light of winter, and the aroma is just, well, heavenly. Thus was born the fourth flavor of les collines, Meyer lemon rosemary.

Meyer lemons are thought to be a cross of either mandarin or regular oranges with lemons. They are slightly rounder (and truly cuter) than regular lemons, with a thinner skin that is a warmer, just slightly orange-tinged shade of yellow and a juice that’s a degree less pucker-inducing.

Of course in these frosty climes the citrus is not locally grown (yet—til we have a greenhouse!) but it is organic—important to me as the entire fruit goes into the pot.

This jelly is very tart with an edge of marmalade-like bittersweetness and a preamble of pure rosemary. My sources say it is a little addictive even on its own…try pairing with mild creamy cheeses, glazing a pork roast or Cornish hens, or drizzling on a grilled or cedar plank salmon. Then close your eyes and you can just about feel the warmth of the sun…